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颜如玉编辑台· Joe Bobowicz·· 10 小时前AI 评分55

Hugo Boss 三季度销售额下滑 5%,Frasers 持股过半在即

Hugo Boss Sales Drop 5% Amid Frasers Takeover

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Hugo Boss 三季度销售额按固定汇率同比下滑 5%,其中 Boss 品牌降 5%、Hugo 降 18%;息税前利润下滑 15% 至 8100 万欧元(上年同期 9500 万欧元),毛利率则提升 220 个基点至 63.3%。公司把全年展望下调至高个位数下滑,同一时间 Frasers 集团的持股将达到 50.08%,Hugo Boss 将成为这家英国零售集团的子公司。原文自标为 developing story,后续可能更新。

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  • Group sales at Hugo Boss dropped 5% year-on-year on a constant currency basis in the third quarter of 2026, attributed to an ongoing strategic turnaround and macroeconomic factors.
  • Boss and Hugo were down 3% and 17%, respectively.
  • EBIT fell 15% to €81 million, down from €95 million, while gross margin improved by 220 basis points to 63.3%.
  • Across territories, sales were down single digits.
  • The company updated its outlook for the full year, down in the high-single-digit range, just as Frasers Group assumes a 50.08% position; Hugo Boss is due to become a subsidiary of the British retail group.

The breakdown

Hugo Boss attributed the 5% sales decline to its ongoing Claim 5 Touchdown turnaround plan. The strategy was implemented in December 2025 by group CEO Daniel Grieder, focusing on brand positioning, targeted distribution and enhanced operations, but is proving a drag on current growth.

The results follow Frasers Group’s takeover of Hugo Boss and its two sub-brands — Boss, which is marketed at millennials, and Gen Z-focused Hugo — on October 23. The acquisition followed a rejected takeover bid in the summer, though the British retail conglomerate continued its efforts, gradually raising its holding and eventually securing majority ownership of the German company.

During Tuesday’s earnings call, Grieder addressed the working relationship with Frasers. “We have regular and constructive dialog with Frasers Group, and we really value them as a significant long-term shareholder,” he told analysts and investors. “As with all shareholders, our engagement is guided by the objective of supporting the long-term success of Hugo Boss, and that is their intention also. So it’s not a short-term investment for them.” Frasers Group CEO Michael Murray assumed the Hugo Boss chair position in September, after Stephan Sturm stepped down.

On the struggles to reach long-term success, Grieder acknowledged a difficult macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, as well as weak consumer demand. While he remained positive about the future of Hugo Boss in its “new constellation” — it will become a subsidiary of Frasers Group — he emphasized the importance of honed distribution, profitability, and cost discipline.

“Our strategic direction on the Claim 5 touchdown [strategy] remains unchanged, and I firmly believe that we are doing the right things. Nevertheless, there is still work ahead of us, and benefits of the related initiatives will take time to materialize,” said Grieder. “But let me stress that we are convinced they will strengthen our business in the long term.”

Hugo Boss’s division into its two sub-labels was formally introduced in early 2022 as part of a seismic rebrand and marketing overhaul. For this quarter, Boss sales fell 3% to €813 million, while Hugo sales fell 17% to €133 million. The company continues to invest in marketing to build brand equity across both businesses, noting the new Boss by Beckham capsule, which provided an uptick in consumer engagement.

Sales across the company’s retail segments — comprising bricks-and-mortar, the brand website, and online concessions — were down 8% to €516 million, while wholesale and licenses both fell 2% to €406 million and €24 million, respectively.

Across regions, numbers were down. Europe, Middle East, and Africa (EMEA) declined the most, down 7%, a tumble symptomatic of soft demand in the UK and France, despite some resilience in Germany. The conflict in the Middle East also dragged on store traffic, eating into sales performance. The Americas fell 3%, with strongest performance in the US, offset by light decline in Latin America. Grieder explained that the US, nonetheless, had “very good results” for both brands, especially in department stores. The Asia-Pacific region was down 2%, impacted by sales slowdown in China, Southeast Asia and the Pacific cluster.

The new guidance for 2026 forecasted a high-single-digit decline, attributed to weakened demand and ongoing uncertainty. As such, Hugo Boss’s predicted EBIT now sits between €250-300 million for the full year, down from the initial estimate of €300-350 million.

“My focus is on the long term rather than the next quarter, and I see my role as setting the right financial and operational course for Hugo Boss,” said CFO and COO Ivica Maric, who is newly appointed but has been with the company since 2005. “I will use the coming period to review our strategic KPIs as well as the way we manage our balance sheet and cash flows. This is a continuous process aimed at keeping our financial framework aligned with the current market environment and our strategic priorities under Claim 5 Touchdown.”

来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com