为什么榛果色唇线笔几乎不挑肤色：冷暖平衡的道理与三种画法
This Lip Pencil Is Flattering on Practically Every Skin Tone
Vogue 这篇讲的不是某一支产品，而是一个色号为什么适配面广：榛果色（hazelnut）。它属于更柔和的中调棕——不是 90 年代那种深而不透的棕，而是带一点粉调的版本，效果是衬托本唇色与唇形、而不是抢戏。两位化妆师的说法一致：《亢奋》化妆师 Donni Davy 称棕色是「通用」且极为百搭的色调，Chanel 化妆师 Tasha Reiko Brown 称它「经得起时间检验、可靠」，在多种肤色上都好看。榛果色适配的关键在冷暖平衡：以中棕为底、带足够暖意去衬金色与橄榄色肤色，同时那一丝粉调能柔化偏黄橙的底色——正是黄橙底色让某些棕色在冷肤色上显得不衬。原文也诚实留了限定：没有任何单一色号能保证适合所有人。画法有三种层次：日常淡妆轻涂一层，可沿本唇线描或整唇填色；想要更清晰的轮廓就多叠几笔加深；进阶可玩当下流行的轮廓与外扩画法——沿唇线外侧轻描求饱满感，或把颜色集中在唇缘外侧做出立体感。它的质地偏奶油感、好推开，适合当作怕搞不懂色彩分析的人的入门选择。说明：本文为化妆师经验与编辑观点、无临床或测色研究支撑，适配结论按原文专家口径转述，摘要已剥离文中点名的具体产品与购物入口。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
If there’s one lip color that never seems to go out of style, it’s brown. Not the deep, opaque brown we wore in the ’90s, but a softer, medium-toned version, usually with a hint of pink. The effect is more subtle than statement making: a flattering nude that enhances your lips’ natural color and shape without overwhelming the rest of your look.
Of course, professional makeup artists have long championed brown’s versatility. Donni Davy, the makeup artist behind Euphoria, has described brown as not only a “universal” shade but also an extremely versatile one. Meanwhile, Chanel makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown calls it “time-tested and reliable,” noting that it works beautifully across a variety of skin tones.
And there’s one color that is especially flattering across the board: gorgeous hazelnut.
A balance of warm and cool
The secret to a hazelnut hue’s versatility lies in its balance of warm and cool tones. Look for a medium-brown base with just enough warmth to complement golden and olive complexions, while a subtle hint of pink softens the yellow-orange undertones that can make some brown lip colors less flattering on cooler skin. One that’s especially loved? The Smart Fusion Lip Pencil in shade Hazelnut from Kiko Milano.
Of course, no single shade is guaranteed to flatter absolutely everyone. But hazelnut’s balance of brown and pink makes it particularly adaptable for many faces.
How to wear hazelnut lip pencil
Another part of the appeal? You can wear it plenty of ways. For a natural, everyday look, apply a light layer of color, either tracing the natural lip line or filling in the lips entirely. For a more defined effect, build up the pigment with a few additional strokes.
You can also use the pencil to experiment with two of the biggest lip makeup trends: contouring and overlining. Trace just outside the natural lip line for subtle fullness, or concentrate a little more color around the outer edges to create the illusion of dimension. Its creamy texture makes the shade especially easy to work with, delivering soft definition and a touch of radiance without the intensity of a dark lipstick.
The result feels equally appropriate for the office or an evening out. It looks as good with a tailored suit as it does with an elegant dress, and its understated color pairs effortlessly with almost any makeup palette.
Best of all, hazelnut is an easy entry point for anyone who finds color analysis a little overwhelming. There’s no need to memorize your undertones, identify your seasonal color palette, or master complicated combinations. The balanced rosy brown shade does much of the work for you.
Think of it as the lip-pencil equivalent of a great neutral wardrobe staple: versatile, flattering, and remarkably easy to wear.
Kiko Milano
Smart Fusion Matte Lip Crayon in Light Hazlenut
Chanel
Le Crayon Lèvres in Biege Rose
Rhode Skin
Peptide Lip Shape in Balance
Anastasia Beverly Hills
Lip Liner in Hazlenut
Saie
Lip Liner 101 in Flirt
Curious about a beauty or wellness trend? We want to know! Email Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor at beauty@vogue.com.
来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com