胶原三肽是「新一代」吗：能被血液检出，不等于已证更有效
The Next Generation of Collagen Is Here—Does It Work?
胶原补充剂又出了「新一代」：胶原三肽。Vogue 这篇解释稿先把背景说清——胶原约占人体总蛋白的 30%，是皮肤、骨骼、肌腱与软骨等结缔组织的支架，25 岁左右起天然生成逐渐下降，这也是补充剂长盛不衰的原因；但作者本人先泼了冷水：她试过海洋、牛源、粉剂、胶囊、软糖等多种胶原产品数月，效果始终没达到宣传的预期。三肽与常规胶原肽的区别在分子大小：受访皮肤科医生 Derrick Phillips 解释，三肽只由三个氨基酸组成，是最小的胶原片段；常规胶原肽也是水解片段，但大小混杂。他说，部分三肽可以完整地经肠道吸收，其余会继续分解为二肽与单个氨基酸；已有研究在服用后的人体血液中检出源自胶原的三肽与二肽，实验室证据还提示这类肽可能影响负责生成胶原的成纤维细胞。证据限制必须写明：以上只是「能被检出」与实验室层面的初步证据，原文没有给出任何命名研究、样本量或临床终点数据，不能据此断言三肽比常规胶原肽更有效、更不能承诺皮肤或关节的可见改善；「更易吸收」是厂商与市场的主打说法，不等于临床效果已证。是否值得为新一代产品付费，目前没有足够证据下结论，对补充剂有疑虑者请先咨询医生。本文不构成医疗或营养建议。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
A new generation of collagen supplements is here: Collagen tripeptides are the smallest version of collagen possible and said to be more easily absorbed by the body and more effective at stimulating the body’s own collagen production—but is that the case?
I may have had unrealistic expectations when I first tried with collagen supplements. After taking them for months, I expected to look 10 years younger when I looked in the mirror. To say I was disappointed was an understatement. I experimented with different formulas—marine collagen, bovine collagen, collagen peptides, collagen powder, capsules, gels, and even gummies—but I still wasn’t convinced. The results were yet to live up to the promises.
Controversial in supplement form, what’s undeniable about collagen is its importance in the structure of the skin and function in our bodies. Often referred to as the skin’s “scaffolding,” collagen accounts for around 30% of the body’s total protein, supporting the skin as well as bones, tendons, ligaments, cartilage, and other connective tissues. Yet as we get older, our natural collagen production declines from around our mid-20s. This contributes to reduced skin firmness and elasticity, the appearance of fine lines and impacts joint and connective tissue health.
With this in mind, it’s no wonder that collagen supplements have become popular. But despite their quick adoption, there is still much uncertainty about their effectiveness, absorption and whether they deliver meaningful benefits.
Enter collagen tripeptides, a newer generation of collagen supplements that have come to market and have been pegged as a more highly absorbable form. But what are they? Dermatologist Dr. Derrick Phillips explains, “Collagen tripeptides are very small fragments of collagen made up of just three amino acids. Conventional collagen peptides are also broken down forms of collagen, but contain a wider mixture of fragments of different sizes.”
But are they superior to other forms of collagen, and can they deliver more visible results? He reveals that due to their smaller size, “some can be absorbed intact through the gut, while others are broken down further into smaller dipeptides and individual amino acids.” The expert spotlights studies that have “detected both collagen-derived tripeptides and dipeptides in the bloodstream after they are consumed. There is also laboratory evidence suggesting that some of these collagen-derived peptides may influence fibroblasts, the cells in our skin that produce collagen and other structural components.”
Have a beauty or wellness trend you're curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue's senior beauty & wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.
来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com