更温和的新一代视黄醇 HPR：敏感肌的新选择，但证据仍在积累

There are only a handful of skincare ingredients proven to work—and retinol is one of them. It’s part of a larger category of ingredients called retinoids, all derived from vitamin A and considered the gold standard for transforming skin’s texture, clarity, tone, and overall appearance.

There’s a major caveat, though: Because it can be irritating, retinol can’t be used by everyone and you have to be very careful when combining it with other ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, and certain exfoliating acids. Whether you have sensitive, acne-prone, or even normal skin, holy-grail retinol can be decidedly less holy if it leaves your complexion red, dry, peeling, or flaky (collectively known as the dreaded ‘retinol purge’).

It’s not just retinol, BTW. All forms of vitamin A, even low-strength versions, have the potential to cause some degree of irritation, especially for newbies taking the plunge (most derms recommend beginning with a lower concentration of the ingredient a few times a week). That’s because retinoids essentially ask skin cells to behave differently by influencing cell turnover, differentiation, and collagen production to improve texture, fine lines, and photoaging, explains Santa Monica-, and Beverly Hills-based board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD. “In the beginning when using them, there’s an adjustment period, called retinization, that temporarily disrupts the skin barrier, increasing dryness, redness, flaking, and sensitivity, or, as some people call it, the retinoid uglies.” As skin adjusts to the ingredient, these side effects usually taper off and irritation improves.

Meet the experts: Ava Shamban, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills. Melissa Fox is a celebrity master esthetician and Founder of Flawless by Melissa Fox in Miami and West Palm Beach. Debra Luftman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in Beverly Hills.

Still, some skin types, especially those with compromised skin barriers or dry, sensitive, eczema- or rosacea-prone skin simply can’t tolerate vitamin A-derived ingredients, no matter how low and slow they go. For that reason, these ingredients have earned an unfair reputation as overly irritating, claims Melissa Fox, a celebrity master esthetician and Founder of Flawless by Melissa Fox in Miami and West Palm Beach. “But you can have a powerful vitamin A treatment without feeling like your skin has to suffer for results.”

That’s because there’s a little-known gentler version of retinol that’s just starting to pop up in over-the-counter products. Known as hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), this next-generation retinoic acid ester is a virtually less-irritating molecule and just may be the secret for those that have been forced to swear off retinol.

Intrigued, I spoke with two dermatologists and an aesthetician, all well-versed in the world of retinoids, about what makes HPR different yet beneficial, and everything you need to know before making it your new favorite skincare ingredient.

Welcome to the new age of retinoids

So what is this magical molecule? HPR, also listed as ‘granactive retinoid’ on some ingredient labels, is the newest member of the retinoid family and is quickly becoming a go-to alternative to stronger, harsher iterations. “It’s a newer retinoic acid ester that may provide some of the anti-aging benefits of traditional retinoids just with less irritation,” says Debra Luftman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in Beverly Hills.

For traditional retinol to work its magic, it must first convert into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, Dr. Shamban explains. For example, tretinoin, available only by prescription, is already retinoic acid and therefore considered your strongest option. Similarly, HPR comes straight out of the bottle as an already accessible version that doesn’t require any conversions. “This multi-step conversion process is typically what causes the significant discomfort and reaction process,” she adds. Essentially, fewer conversion steps equals less irritation. (But Dr. Shamban is quick to note that irritation also depends on the molecule's biological activity, concentration, delivery system, skin barrier condition, and level of sensitivity.)

Fox adds that HPR is particularly promising for anyone who want the benefits of vitamin A, such as smoother texture, improved appearance of fine lines, and more even-looking skin, but has struggled with traditional formulas. “Early research suggests it may offer good tolerability, which is exciting, but the clinical evidence is still developing, so I wouldn’t call it completely irritation-free.” One study shows that HPR demonstrates well-tolerated anti-aging effects as a gentler option, especially for sensitive skin.

A new power player?

What remains to be seen with any decisive clarity is however HPR compares results-wise with tried-and-true versions of vitamin A like retinol or commonly-prescribed adapalene or tretinoin. While it shows promising activity, Dr. Luftman says there isn't enough clinical evidence to rank it against retinol, retinaldehyde, or prescription tretinoin, which remains most studied.

So why would a skincare brand choose HPR over retinol, with decades of evidence supporting its benefits? From a formulation standpoint, there are several reasons, suggests Dr. Shamban. HPR is oil-soluble and can be incorporated into cosmetically-elegant delivery systems, including emollient-based serums. “The finished product is what actually goes on the skin,” she says, so the nicer to use, the more likely you are to use it. On the other hand, formulating with traditional retinol can be challenging. “It’s sensitive to light, oxygen, and other destabilizing conditions, so HPR may offer those practical formulation advantages.”

HPR in action

Working HPR into your skincare routine isn’t hard, and it follows many of the same rules as traditional retinoids. When considering adding it to your regimen, start gradually. Dr. Luftman recommends applying a small amount to clean, dry skin about three nights per week. “Slowly increase the frequency as your skin adjusts—consistency matters more than concentration.”

Moisturizer is also a must. “You can try the popular sandwich method, which involves applying your cream before and after HPR, to help improve comfort,” suggests Dr. Shaman, “or just apply it after.” She recommends looking for a moisturizer that contains barrier-supporting ingredients, such as ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid. “You’ll also want to avoid using strong exfoliating acids on the same evening during the introductory phase.” However, it’s perfectly safe to use HPR alongside niacinamide, peptides, or retinol alternatives like bakuchiol.

Like retinol, always use HPR with a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen that has an SPF of at least 30 in the morning, since the ingredient can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

The Best HPR Products

Best Overall

Who doesn’t love a single-use ampoule? And when it contains HPR, retinol, and ceramides, all the better. This gentle formula goes hard to work to reduce the visible appearance of wrinkles in seven days, without the irritation or dryness that retinol can leave behind. Instead, it improves the skin’s texture and tone without any redness or flaking.

Best Budget Pick

A more affordable option worth considering is this serum, which hits on the common signs of aging and uneven tone and texture. Dr. Luftman particularly likes that the product contains HPR in a moisturizing squalane base, so it’s appealing for those with dry or sensitive skin who have difficulty tolerating conventional retinol.

Best For Dry Skin

Dry skin and retinol can, unfortunately, go hand in hand. While skincare experts often suggest applying a moisturizer after retinol, why not make life easy and ditch the extra step? This lightweight oil is powered by HPR, four hyaluronic acid derivatives, peptides, and skin-friendly oils to support the skin barrier and deliver a dose of moisture where its needed most. We also like how the oil creates a natural glow and a more refined complexion by morning that improves with each use.

Best For Body

HPR isn’t exclusive to just the face. In fact, it’s making its way into body lotions and serums for the same reason it’s becoming the ingredient du jour in skin care. This potent-yet-gentle lightweight retinoid serum repairs the skin and leaves it better hydrated, silky soft, and smooth.

Best For Eyes

The delicate skin around the eyes is often also home to fine lines, wrinkles, thinning skin, and discoloration, which is why an eye cream with HPR is a must. Formulated specifically for the eye area, this sensitive skin-approved cream also counts peptides and plant extracts among its hero ingredients to reverse the appearance of tired, aging eyes.

Go forward with glow

There’s a lot of skin-boosting potential with HPR, but before you slather it all over, read the ingredient label, since some products also contain retinol or retinoids. While HPR can absolutely serve as the sole retinoid in your skincare routine, or be paired with other vitamin A derivatives, Dr. Luftman suggests anyone with sensitive skin use it alone to minimize potential irritation. “There’s sufficient evidence that combining HPR with a retinoid does produce better results,” she adds.

And bear in mind that just like a retinoid, HPR takes weeks for the skin to adjust and for results to show, so patience is a virtue. Your skin may be dry initially, but Dr. Shamban says persistent burning, significant redness, or peeling is a sign to stop and reassess, not push through.

Bottom line: If you’ve tried what seems like every retinol and retinoid out there and still haven’t found the perfect one that doesn’t leave your skin dry, red, and irritated, then it may be time to give HPR a try. Don’t expect an overnight miracle, but you may notice significantly less irritation, making it easier to tolerate. Ultimately, Dr. Shamban says the most effective retinoid is the one that delivers results—and that your skin can tolerate.

In short, the product you’ll actually use.

Elise Minton Tabin is an award-winning beauty journalist, editor, and expert with more than 19 years of experience. She started her career in public relations before shifting to editorial. Elise rose the ranks at NewBeauty magazine from an editorial assistant to Executive Beauty Editor, overseeing and reporting on all things beauty, plastic surgery, anti-aging, health, and wellness.

A prolific content creator and trendspotter, Elise always knows what’s new, what works, and who’s the best to go to for treatments and procedures. She has been featured on Extra TV, WPTV, and WPLG, on satellite tours, and as a featured expert in Perricone MD infomercials. She is also a regular contributor to InStyle.com, The Zoe Report, Byrdie, Beauty Independent, O Oprah Daily, and more. She also runs the Gen Z skincare brand, TWiiSH, with her teenage daughter, Madysen.

Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.