免洗护发素怎么涂才对:位置比产品更重要,四步做法
I Just Learned How to Apply Leave-In Conditioner Correctly
Vogue 请发型师 Paul Perez、Wendy Iles 与毛发学家 Jay Small 拆解免洗护发素的正确用法:先洗净、只在中段至发尾用护发素并以温水冲净;用手挤水、毛巾裹至微潮而非滴水再涂,取约硬币大小在掌心搓开、只涂中段至发尾、避开头皮,细软发先喷于掌心再用湿发梳梳匀;吹干要分小束、从颈后起、风口顺发丝向下;最后取一两滴精华油压于中段至发尾收尾。需说明:本文是发型师经验与毛发学解释,非对照研究,效果因发质而异;文首附带产品一览,摘要已剥离全部品牌与价格。
Leave-in conditioner tends to be the product people buy right after a great salon blowout, convinced it’s the secret behind how soft and smooth their hair looks leaving the chair, only to get it home and find it doesn’t behave the same way at all. A big squeeze rubbed in everywhere like hand lotion usually ends with roots that look greasy by the next morning, and ends that still catch on the brush. Before long, the bottle is collecting dust at the back of the bathroom cabinet. Most of the time, though, the formula isn’t what went wrong.
How to Apply Leave-In Conditioner, At a Glance:
- The Daily Shampoo: Moroccanoil Hydrating Shampoo, $30
- The Nourishing Conditioner: Oribe Gold Lust Repair & Restore Conditioner, $59
- The Bond-Repair Leave-In Conditioner: Olaplex N°.5 Leave-In Conditioner, $34
- The Blow Dry Serum: Kérastase Discipline Thermique Blow Dry Primer Serum, $52
- The Heat Protectant: Verb Ghost Prep Heat Protectant, $22
- The Blowout Balm: R+Co Hot Spell Thermotech Blow Out Balm, $34
- The Finishing Serum: IGK Crybaby Smoothing & Finishing Serum, $32
“I always want a leave-in conditioner to give the hair what it needs without losing its movement,” says celebrity hairstylist Paul Perez, co-founder of Flore. That’s hard to pull off if most of the product ends up on your scalp, or gets watered down before it ever reaches your ends, which is why he’s quick to add that “placement matters just as much as the product.”
A lot of it comes down to things that happen at the salon without anyone really noticing. Your stylist wrings out your hair before reaching for any product, for instance, and that alone keeps a leave-in from sliding right off wet strands. They also tend to dry your hair a section at a time, starting underneath, which is a big part of why it comes out so smooth, and it’s exactly the kind of step that’s easy to rush through at home when you’re trying to get out the door.
Below, hairstylists and a trichologist explain how to apply leave-in conditioner from start to finish, along with the products they’d reach for at each step.
In This Story:
- How much leave-in conditioner should I use?
- Can I skip conditioner and just use leave-in conditioner?
- Is leave-in conditioner good for your hair?
- How We Tested
- Meet the Experts
Step 1: Apply Shampoo and Conditioner
A leave-in can only do so much on hair that’s still coated in yesterday’s dry shampoo, which is why the process starts in the shower. “The best way to use a leave-in conditioning product is on clean hair after washing,” says celebrity hairstylist Wendy Iles, founder of Iles Formula. Work your shampoo into your scalp, since that’s where oil and product tend to build up, and let the lather rinse through your lengths on its own rather than scrubbing the ends. Conditioner should go on your mid-lengths and ends, where hair is older and drier, and it only needs a minute or two before you rinse it out with lukewarm water. It’s worth taking your time with that rinse, because any conditioner left behind will stack up with your leave-in and weigh hair down, something fine hair tends to feel first. If you use a lot of styling products, swapping in a clarifying shampoo every week or so will keep buildup from getting in the way.
Moroccanoil
Hydrating Shampoo
If your hair always feels a little dry by the end of the week, start with a good hydrating shampoo. This one from Moroccanoil cleans without that squeaky feeling, thanks to argan oil, red algae, and vitamins A and E. It’s sulfate-free and safe on color-treated hair. Use less than you think is enough—it’s concentrated, so a splash of water turns a small amount into plenty of lather.
Augustinus Bader
The Rich Shampoo
Yes, we agree $67 might be a lot to spend for one bottle of shampoo. But this one is a cream, not a gel, and it washes more like a conditioner than a cleanser. Moringa and baobab oils soften hair that’s dry, colored, or heat-styled, and it doesn’t leave finer strands flat.
Briogeo
Superfoods Replenishing Shampoo
Not every shampoo has to fix something. This one is for hair that’s healthy but looking a little more dull than usual. Apple, matcha, and kale clean without stripping, and the shine shows up after a wash or two. It’s also free of sulfates and silicones, so it won’t build up, even after multiple uses.
Oribe
Gold Lust Repair & Restore Conditioner
This is the kind of conditioner that makes a regular Tuesday shower feel like a salon visit. Gold Lust is made for hair that’s dry, damaged, and a little over it, and it’s packed with argan oil, shea butter, biotin, and niacinamide to bring back softness and slip. There’s even UV protection, so your color hangs on a little longer. If you’re in a rush, even two minutes through your mid-lengths and ends will do wonders. But if your ends are feeling a little bit on the crunchier side, give it the full five, and your comb will glide right through.
Step 2: Gently Towel Dry and Apply Leave-In Conditioner
This is where most people go wrong, since it’s tempting to apply leave-in to hair that’s still dripping. “When hair is oversaturated, water occupies the internal spaces of the strand (the cortex). This dilutes your product and causes it to slide right off the cuticle,” explains trichologist Jay Small, co-founder of Arey.
Instead, squeeze the water out with your hands first, then wrap your hair in a soft towel made for hair, like Arey’s Hair Wrap, until it feels damp rather than soaked. Before you reach for the bottle, run your fingers through your hair and notice which parts feel dry or rough, because, as Perez points out, “your ends may need more conditioning than the newer hair closer to the roots.” Iles starts with about “a nickel or quarter size,” rubbed between the palms and smoothed “from the mid-lengths to the ends,” keeping it off the scalp “to keep your hair from looking oily.” If your hair is fine, Perez suggests spraying the leave-in into your hands first instead of directly onto your head, then running a wet brush through to spread it evenly.
Aveda
Nutriplenish Leave-In Conditioner
If your hair drinks up moisture and still looks thirsty, keep this one by the sink for tiny refreshes throughout the week. It’s a light, milky mist made with organic pomegranate oil, and it hydrates for up to 72 hours while protecting against heat up to 450°F. There’s a natural UV filter in there, too, which comes in handy on beach days when you’ve had a little too much heat. Fine hair should keep it to the mid-lengths and ends, while thick or textured hair can go roots to tips.
Virtue
Refresh Purifying Leave-in Conditioner
This is the leave-in for people who swear they hate leave-ins. It sprays on as a fine mist and dries without any film, so fine and medium hair doesn’t fall flat. Virtue’s Alpha Keratin 60ku helps calm frizz and split ends, and there’s a bit of UV protection, too. Spritz it on damp hair right when you get out of the shower, comb through, and style. Bonus points for the citrus and tea notes, which are the perfect treat early in the morning.
Living Proof
Leave-In Conditioning Spray
If brushing out your hair feels like a fight, start here. This spray is all about detangling, and Living Proof says it makes hair nine times easier to comb through. It’s weightless, protects against heat up to 450°F and UV, and uses time-release peptides to keep hair soft all day. Spray it from roots to ends on damp hair, focus on the knots, and comb through.
Olaplex
Nº.5 Leave-In Conditioner
Olaplex took its cult conditioner and made it into a leave-in version, allowing all of us to count on its bond-building technology whenever needed. The gel-cream uses the brand’s bond-building technology to repair hair and seal split ends, and it doubles as a heat protectant up to 450°F. Olaplex says it adds 12 times more moisture after one use, and you can feel it in your ends. Work a small amount through damp hair before styling, and if your hair is fine, start with less than you think.
Step 3: Blow Dry Hair in Small Sections
Drying your whole head at once might feel faster, but it’s usually how you end up with smooth layers on top and frizz hiding underneath. “If your hair remains in clumps or clusters, it will be very difficult for individual strands to dry evenly,” says Small. Perez sections hair before he even applies any product, “so you reach the underneath layers, rather than putting everything on the surface,” and the same idea works when you pick up the dryer. Spray on a heat protectant, clip the top half of your hair out of the way, and start at the nape, working in sections about as wide as your brush. Keeping the nozzle pointed down the length of your hair and the dryer moving the whole time will give you more shine and less frizz once you’re done.
Kérastase
Discipline Thermique Primer Serum
If your blowout always frizzes out by lunch, this is the step you’ve been skipping. It’s a milky cream that smooths every strand before the dryer even comes out, then keeps humidity from undoing all your work. The best part about this primer is that it also protects against heat and cuts down on breakage. To use, comb a hazelnut-size amount through towel-dried hair and blow-dry as usual.
Verb
Ghost Prep Heat Protectant
A styling cream that doesn’t weigh you down? It actually exists surprisingly. Verb’s Ghost Prep protects up to 450°F, tames flyaways, and adds shine, all from a dime-size amount. Moringa oil and green tea extract do the heavy lifting. Not heat styling everyday? Dab a little on your ends for a glossy, air-dried finish for when you’re skipping tools. And at under $20, you won’t feel bad going through a bottle or two every few months.
Bumble and bumble
Heat Shield Blow Dry Accelerator
Anyone who’s ever given up on a blowout halfway through will appreciate this one. Bumble and bumble’s spray is designed to cut blow-dry time in half, and fewer minutes under the dryer means less heat damage over time. All the credit goes to the brand’s Honey Protective Complex, which smooths frizz and helps prevent breakage, plus UV filters for sunny days. Mist it over damp hair before drying, focusing on the crown and the back of your head.
R+Co
Hot Spell Thermotech Blow Out Balm
If your blowouts never look quite as smooth as the salon’s, this balm is a good place to start. It goes on silky and melts into a cream as you work it through damp hair, so it’s easy to spread evenly without overdoing it. Mustard seed oil helps block humidity, kiwi oil keeps hair hydrated, and it protects against heat up to 450°F. Warm a small amount between your palms, run it through, and blow-dry as usual—your style should still hold its shape on day two.
Step 4: Apply a Finishing Product
This is the step that makes a blowout look polished rather than almost there, since a drop or two of serum or oil smooths the flyaways your brush left behind, adds shine, and helps keep frizz from creeping back by mid-afternoon. It’s easy to overdo, especially with fine hair, so warm a small amount between your palms and press it into your mid-lengths and ends, keeping it well away from the roots. You can always add a little more later, but there’s no quick fix for hair that ends up looking greasy.
IGK
Crybaby Smoothing & Finishing Serum
IGK’s Crybaby is a serum-in-oil, which sounds fussy but just means it sinks into hair instead of sitting on top of it. That’s why it can smooth frizz and add shine without the greasy finish some serums leave behind. Coconut oil softens dry ends, prickly pear extract boosts shine, and there’s UV protection to help keep color from fading. A small amount on damp or dry hair goes a long way.
Philip Kingsley
Finishing Touch Polishing Serum
For a serum that just gives you that je ne sais quoi, reach for this cult favorite from Philip Kingsley. It’s a triple threat, working to tame frizz, delivering tons of shine, and also leaves the hair smelling lovely. Safe for color-treated hair, just a small amount is all you need for a “finishing touch.”
Ouai
Hair Oil
Ouai’s oil earned its cult following for good reason. Firstly, it’s light enough for fine hair, but it still smooths frizz, seals split ends, and leaves a glossy finish. It’s got just about everything you need— protects against heat up to 450°F, hydrates so hair never feels dry, and can go on before a blowout as well as after. Work one to three drops through wet hair and let it air-dry, or smooth it over dry hair after styling to calm flyaways. It smells like violet and gardenia, which doesn’t hurt either.
Sisley Paris
Precious Hair Care Oil
Yes, it’s a splurge, but this is the kind of oil that makes your entire routine feel more luxurious. Sisley’s blend of botanical oils adds serious shine and softness without weighing hair down, and a couple of drops is all you need, so even a pricey bottle can last you a while. Smooth them from the mid-lengths to the ends on damp hair before styling, or on dry hair as a final polish.
Everything You Need To Know
How much leave-in conditioner should I use?
Less than you probably think, and it’s better to build up slowly than to start with a big squeeze. Small points out that it’s easy to go overboard when hair is still too wet, which “can cause you to over-apply the product without realizing it until the hair is dry, forcing you to start the entire process over.” Perez suggests starting small, then pausing to see how your hair feels before adding more. “The hair should feel supple and easy to handle, without feeling over-saturated,” he says. “Give a dry section a little extra attention instead of adding another layer everywhere.” Thicker, coarser, or curlier hair will usually need more product than fine hair, but the same rule applies either way.
Can I skip conditioner and just use leave-in conditioner?
For most people, it’s best to use both, since a rinse-out conditioner and a leave-in don’t do quite the same job. Your regular conditioner softens and detangles in the shower, while a leave-in adds a lighter layer of moisture and protection that stays on through styling, which is why Perez applies leave-in only “after washing and conditioning.” There are exceptions, though, and they usually come down to the product itself. “Repair treatments such as K18 Molecular Repair Mask require a different sequence,” Perez explains, which means shampooing “without conditioning first,” towel-drying, and applying the treatment before waiting “four minutes before combing or adding other products.” If you’re not sure, the directions on the bottle will tell you everything you need to know.
Is leave-in conditioner good for your hair?
Used the right way, yes, especially if your hair is dry, damaged, or prone to tangling. Wet hair is at its most fragile, and as Small notes, “the wetter your hair is, the more vulnerable it is to mechanical breakage,” so the extra slip from a leave-in makes brushing much gentler. That’s also why Perez recommends detangling “from the ends upward” with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, aiming for “even coverage without pulling or repeatedly brushing fragile wet hair.” Many leave-ins also add heat or UV protection, which he says “provides a natural UV barrier.” The only real downside is using too much, so start small and focus on the ends.
How We Tested
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue's vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry's standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to leave-in conditioners, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredients, texture, ease of application, packaging, finish, and the hair-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here.
Meet the Experts
- Jay Small is a trichologist and co-founder of Arey Haircare, with over 10 years of experience.
- Wendy Iles is a celebrity hairstylist with over 10 years of experience and founder of Iles Formula.
- Paul Perez is a celebrity hairstylist with over 10 years of experience and co-founder of salon Flore.
来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com