巴黎时装周美容趋势报告:大刘海、红甲和镜面光又回来了
Vogue’s Paris Beauty Trend Report
Vogue 总结了巴黎 2027 春季时装周后台的五个美容趋势。一是大刘海回归:从 Celine 的精灵感尖角刘海、Louis Vuitton 的串珠刘海,到 Loewe 直接遮住眼睛的假刘海,存在感都很强。二是镜面反光:水钻点眼、银箔额头、眼皮上叠眼影蜜这类发亮处理反复出现,连底妆都追求被光打到的水光感。三是红甲不设规则:Miu Miu 是带点凌乱感的红,Dior 手脚用了不同深浅的红,Celine 同一只手上混了几种砖红色。四是眼线文化回归:粗闪、彩色翅膀、贴在眼线位置的夸张假睫毛,画法越玩越开。五是唇妆重新浓墨重彩:红到粉的渐变唇、边缘模糊的紫红唇都回来了,Victoria Beckham 甚至把新口红直接在秀场上首发。对普通人最容易借鉴的其实是红甲混搭和模糊唇边两招,成本最低、翻车率也最低。
As fashion month comes to a close and editors return home from Paris on red-eye flights, the best beauty moments of Spring 2027 have been clocked. It was a season of international experimentation, at long last. From New York’s insistence that low ponies and naked nails are, indeed, chic, to Milan’s cheeky winks of morning-after makeup and good-bad-hair days, designers and artists made room to play.
Backstage in the City of Light, there were plenty of one-off trends, like the pink hair at Isabel Marant that Damien Boissinot spray-painted onto models’ lengths as a nod to Kate Moss’s ’90s dye job. A couple of blink-and-you’ll-miss-them accessories emerged as headbands made out of elasticized sunglasses, which Guido Palau added to hair for Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga as well as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s Loewe. Overall, the biggest trends came up again and again, though, from no-rules red nails to big time bangs.
Here, five ways to celebrate and re-create this season’s standout beauty notes, according to the Paris shows.
Big-Time Bangs

Photo: Gianluca Carraro / Gorunway.com
As Vogue’s beauty team keeps a running Part Chart tracking the season’s hair directions, Paris assures us that a forward fringe is la star du moment. Hair artist Duffy’s range of bangs at Celine included fairylike points, tousles over headbands, side-swept curtains, glassy straights, and fuzzy waves. Next, he secured fringes of beaded bangs across models’ hairlines at Louis Vuitton. For Kiko Kostadinov, hair artist Tomihiro Kono’s handmade wiglet bangs were crimpy, colorful, and shorter than at Loewe, where real and faux bangs styled by Palau completely covered models’ eyes. For her front-row seat at Dior, Jennifer Lawrence showed a freshly trimmed set by Matthew Sosnowski, who told Vogue that he looks at “hair as a frame of the canvas, so fringe always provides that beautifully.”
Points of Reflection

Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Artists made the most of mirror finishes. Some were obvious, like Lucia Pieroni’s crafty crystals dotting eyes at Celine and silver-leaf foreheads by makeup artist Fara Homidi at Gabriela Hearst. Subtler versions appeared as vinyl slicks: At Tom Ford, makeup artist Lucy Bridge applied the house’s Runway Eye Gloss over shadow, and similarly at Isabel Marant, Diane Kendal dabbed Smith’s Rosebud Salve directly onto lids. At Chloé, cheekbones massaged with isClinical hyaluronic-acid-spiked Hydra-Cool Serum caught the light, and at Christopher Esber, the designer requested “luminous” skin coated in Anua’s PDRN line to highlight the cast’s natural beauty through what Esber described to Vogue as “softness and light.”
No-Rules Ruby Nails

ScreenshotCourtesy of Red Represents
Ruby and garnet polish took the runways. Nail artist Mei Kawajari painted them messy at Miu Miu, with a youthfulness to the application and a power to the shade: “Red is both feminine and strong,” she told Vogue. “I love how timeless it is.” At Dior, artist Ama Quashie mismatched red and burgundy on hands and feet using Dior Vernis in a deep oxblood 047 Nuit shade on nails and cherry 853 Rouge Trafalgar on toes. For Celine, Quashie roughly painted nails on the same hand different bricky shades, and for Matières Fécales, manicurist Lora de Sousa offered all lengths and shapes of red, from curling claws to XXL ovals and sharp stilettos. Even Rihanna showed up at the AWGE runway with a ruby 10-set.
Embracing Line Culture

Photo: Gianluca Carraro / Gorunway.com
This year’s love of line culture has finally made its return to eyes. Backstage at Dior, Peter Philips, creative and image director of Christian Dior Makeup, glued strips of “Mylar drag-queen jumbo lashes” in the shape of eyeliner or attached wings of chunky silver glitter with NYX glitter primer to surfer models’ eyes. Pieroni painted wings in shades of cobalt, green, violet, and black at Givenchy. At Dries Van Noten, Thomas de Kluyver scribbled inky liner into the hollows of eyes and just under the lash line. And at Mugler, makeup artist Karin Westerlund further extended their reach with feathery lashes glued to the outside of feline flicks. And why not? As Philips pointed out, “it’s just fun.”
A Lipstick Case

Victoria Beckham
The runways often spotlight starkly painted lips for the drama when in real life we’re reaching for balmy duos or stains. This season, a painterly push was in full force: Victoria Beckham launched her new lipstick straight off the runway, which makeup artist Lucia Pica described to Vogue as delivering “real sophistication in something so simple” when applied to the majority of models. At Dries, De Kluyver painted ombre fades from red to ballet pink or oxblood to brick. For Lanvin, Kendal offered a sharply lined red, and at Valentino, Yadim chose fuchsia for a just-kissed blur. One could argue that even an eyeliner may work in a pinch to re-create Dame Pat McGrath’s onyx lip at Schiaparelli. The essential pairing? A polished, fresh face.
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.
来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com