Danielle Frankel 2027春夏：做了十年婚纱后，这一季主动把声量调低
Danielle Frankel Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear
以「酷女孩」廓形和工艺见长的婚纱品牌 Danielle Frankel，2027 春夏这一季明显收了声量。Vogue 秀评人 Alexandra Hildreth 写道，品牌以往那种略带怪趣的 elevated 感这一季退后了，取而代之的是更安静的简洁——设计师 Danielle Frankel 把它部分归于行业今年的 reset，部分归于做了十年婚纱生意后的成熟。她的原话是：工艺永远在最前面，但这一季她想找到「你脑子里一想到就会浮现的那个纯粹的东西」。安静不等于无聊，这一季真正的重心是定制：新娘走进她的工作室，可以直接带走一件现成的常青款礼服——比如缀着蓬松裙摆、配结构感紧身胸衣的 Ballerina 礼服——也可以加加减减，比如外搭一件蕾丝长袍。Frankel 说，定制和量身如今已是品牌业务的最前沿，她最不希望听到的就是新娘说「我喜欢这件，但总觉得还差一点」。经典廓形与束身结构仍是底子，面向都市新娘的新意藏在一条拖地长裙里：裙身像吊带裙一样轻，裙摆却用结构感的绳绣蕾丝收住。当被问到这一季有没有什么激进的、定义性的新技术或新廓形时，Frankel 回答得很干脆：「没有，这样也很好。」说明：本文为秀场评论，系列阐释来自设计师自述与评论者观察，属审美解读而非可核实的行业数据。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
Recognized for her cool-girl silhouettes and technical know-how, there was a quiet simplicity to Danielle Frankel’s spring collection. Call it a symptom of this year’s reset or just the subtle maturity that comes with ten years in the bridal biz, but this season took a step back from some of the elevated kookiness that has come to define the brand. “Our craftsmanship is always at the forefront of what we do, but I wanted to find that pure thing that you think of in your head,” said Frankel.
If anything, this slight shift puts more emphasis on the customization aspect of Frankel’s gowns. Brides-to-be can walk into her serene studio and walk out with a fully formed, evergreen gown directly off-the-rack, like this season’s Ballerina gown with a frothy skirt and constructed bodice, or they can add, subtract, and enhance—perhaps with a lace outer robe—as they should so desire. “It's wild how much customization and custom is at the forefront of what we are doing,” says Frankel. “However, I would never want a bride to come in and say, ‘I love this gown, but it doesn't feel complete.’”
While classic shapes and corsetry were at the heart of the collection, Frankel still found ways to appeal to the city slicker brides who increasingly fill our feeds—namely in the form of a slip-like skirt anchored by a structured corded lace hem. However, when asked if there was anything radical, technique- or silhouette-wise, that defined this season, the designer put it confidently: “No, and that’s okay.”
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com