Shushu/Tong上海2027春夏：把《瑟堡的雨伞》的忧郁，穿成糖果色的少女裙
Shushu/Tong Shanghai Spring 2027
这是 Vogue 对中国设计师品牌 Shushu/Tong（设计师 Liushu Lei 与 Yutong Jiang）在上海 2027 春夏的一篇秀评。本季名为 Darling Melancholy（亲爱的忧郁），关键参照是雅克·德米 1964 年的经典歌舞片《瑟堡的雨伞》——秀场每个座位上都放了一把彩色雨伞。秀评说这一季把一点法国新浪潮带到了上海，Mary Quant 与 Courrèges 的六十年代影子也在其中，再加一勺 Miu Miu 式的少女气：短而俏的轮廓、花瓣边细节、气球裙、钩编蕾丝配糖果色组合，再缀上珠饰小雏菊提亮心情，间或有运动感细节跑过，最后抢镜的是配饰——每位模特都像抱着一件波普玩具一样，把方正小包抱在臂弯里。设计师说灵感来自两人童年对日本动漫的迷恋，这种气质一直萦绕在该品牌的校园制服式密码与略带不真实感的漂亮里；这一季，六十年代『经过一层亚洲视角』再出来，成了对苦乐参半的渴望没什么兴趣的衣服。秀评的判断也克制：一切都过分漂亮、比例利落、意外地好穿，只是忧郁更多停在标题里——裙子本身已经被塞了一把粉色雨伞、被劝着高兴起来。说明：本文为单篇秀评，阐释来自设计师自述与评论者 Tiziana Cardini 的现场观察，属审美解读，没有销售数据或第三方评价可核验，读者当作认识这个中国设计师品牌当季思路的窗口即可，不要把秀评解读当作品牌经营结论。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
At Shushu/Tong, a colorful umbrella on every seat nods to Jacques Demy’s 1964 whimsical classic The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, a key reference point for Darling Melancholy, the spring collection's title. It brought a little French New Wave to Shanghai, with Mary Quant and Courrèges also in the mix, plus a dash of Miu Miu. Along for the ride: short, girly silhouettes, petal-edged details, balloon skirts and macramé lace in candy-colored combinations. Add to that a drizzle of embellishments and beaded daisies to keep the mood upbeat. Everything was exceedingly pretty, neatly proportioned, and disarmingly wearable. Melancholy, however, was another matter. Whatever heartbreak was unfolding in Demy’s film, here it had been given a pink umbrella and told to cheer up. Just when it all got very sweet, a few sporty details jogged by, though it was the accessories that had the last word: each girl clutched a ladylike boxy bag in the crook of her arm like a Pop Art toy.
Designers Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang spoke of their childhood obsessions with Japanese anime, a sensibility that has long hovered around the label’s schoolgirl uniform codes and slightly unreal prettiness. This season, the ‘60s passed “through an Asian lens,” they said, and came out as clothes with no interest in bittersweet longing. The melancholy may have been in the title, but it certainly wasn’t in the skirts. The brand’s well-groomed front row sized up all that cuteness with the laser focus of VICs already mentally adding those skirts to their carts.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com