金·卡戴珊穿上 Louis Vuitton 最罕见的秀场护士装之一

Kim Kardashian has been raiding the fashion archives with extraordinary enthusiasm of late, but her latest vintage pull comes with a health warning. Enter: a very rare, almost 20-year-old Louis Vuitton nurse uniform, complete with a monogrammed lace face mask, personalized cap, and coordinating accessories. The look, from Marc Jacobs’s spring 2008 collection for the house, is a heart-palpitating piece of runway history.

The ensemble was sourced by stylist Law Roach from the personal archive of Lauren Pyes, a Boston-based Harvard University employee and avid collector of Jacobs-era Louis Vuitton, whose extraordinary collection Vogue first explored last year. Pyes has spent years scouring resale platforms, boutiques, and obscure corners of the internet for some of the designer’s most coveted creations, amassing what she affectionately calls the “Marchive.”

“Law reached out to me a few months ago and was interested in pieces of the Marchive," Pyes tells Vogue. “Suffice to say, I was thrilled to loan them to him.” When Roach first contacted her, she could scarcely believe it was him. “I kept toggling back and forth to make sure it wasn’t a spam account!” she recalls. “Although he has a larger-than-life public persona, Law is deeply kind and gracious in addition to being the visionary he is rightly lauded as. I have so much respect for his dedication to telling stories through fashion and his commitment to finding the pieces that do exactly that.”

And few collections have quite as much storytelling potential as Louis Vuitton’s spring 2008 offering. Presented in Paris in October 2007, the show opened with a procession of supermodels—including Naomi Campbell, Stephanie Seymour, Eva Herzigova, and Nadja Auermann—dressed as nurses in sheer, pastel-colored uniforms, black lace masks, and white caps. The inspiration was the American artist Richard Prince, whose provocative Nurse Paintings informed the collection and accompanying collaboration with the house. Reviewing the collection at the time, Vogue’s Sarah Mower described it as a “typical Jacobs coup of multidimensional, referential, and self-referential significance,” and a “hilariously kinky parade” that “reflected Jacobs’s way of walking the line between creative freedom and commercial innovation.” It was one of Jacobs’s most deviant, deliciously strange runway spectacles.

Kim Kardashian’s interpretation was remarkably faithful to the original. She wore the sheer, short-sleeved white nurse’s coat cinched at the waist over a delicate, peach-colored silk dress, with white stockings and peep-toe heels. A black lace Louis Vuitton face mask covered her mouth, while a white nurse’s cap (commissioned by Roach and reimagined by legendary milliner Stephen Jones) bearing a red “K” sat atop her sleek dark hair. In her arms was another treasure from the collection: an Aquarelle Papillon bag. The shoes also hailed from spring 2008.

Bringing together such a complete ensemble was no small undertaking. “I sourced these pieces from all over—including platforms like Poshmark and Vestiaire Collective—for over a year,” Pyes explains. The dresses have become a particular obsession: she has owned four, including a pink silk satin version that remains in her permanent collection. Vogue actually purchased another of the orange dresses—the same color Kardashian wore—from Pyes a little over a year ago. But the real rarity is the mask and overcoat, which Pyes considers among her most treasured finds. Earlier this year, the ensemble was exhibited at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), where it even caught the attention of one of its original creators.

“I had it exhibited at SCAD back in April, and Stephen Jones—who made it in collaboration with Louis Vuitton—was apparently surprised that it even existed!” Pyes says of the mask. “If the person who made it was in disbelief by seeing it, I guess that means it is pretty rare!”

Kardashian and Roach have been on a formidable archival streak throughout the All’s Fair press tour, resurrecting everything from ’90s Paco Rabanne couture to vintage Dolce & Gabbana and Jean Paul Gaultier-era Hermès. The Louis Vuitton nurse look is their most playful fashion deep dive yet.

And for Pyes, it’s precisely that irreverence that makes the Jacobs years so compelling. She points to the extraordinary creative team behind the collection, including Peter Copping, then head of womenswear and now creative director of Lanvin, and Camille Miceli, currently at the helm of Pucci. “This collection and these pieces are so special because they highlight what Marc and his team did so well—seamlessly integrating fashion and art into a cohesive and powerful narrative,” she says. She remembers the supermodel casting, the nurse uniforms, and even Jacobs taking his final bow beside a custom Vuitton trunk playing an episode of SpongeBob SquarePants. “There are so many elements that were unexpected and genuine in a pre-social media age.”

Pyes, of course, has continued to do some killer sourcing. She’s recently completed a “trifecta of accessories” from the Louis Vuitton fall 2011 collection, better known as the “Fetish Collection.” This includes a shearling porter hat, mask hair accessory, and a patent leather bib. On the non-vintage side of things? “I am champing at the bit to receive the custom order I put in from Marc’s Spring 2027 collection,” she shares. “After more than 40 years, he continues to create incredible fashion and I feel fortunate to be adding this ensemble to the Marchive!”

Whether Kim’s look was a Halloween latergram, another cheeky press tour outing, or just a moment of play inside an impressive archive, for now, is anyone’s guess. Whatever the occasion, Pyes is delighted to see the collection enjoying a new life in the public imagination. Nearly two decades after its debut, Jacobs’s peculiar, provocative vision remains as potent as ever. “These clothes are not just beautiful and special,” she says, “but also consequential. This collection walked almost 20 years ago and yet continues to figure so largely in pop culture and the imagination of fashion lovers.” Nurse Kardashia, the defibrillator please!