David Koma 2027 春夏：把九十年代花滑赛场搬上 T 台
David Koma Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear
David Koma 这一季的起点是「凉爽的夏天」，由此滑进了冰场：1990 年代竞争白热化的花样滑冰世界——水钻与戏剧化的女性气质裹着严苛的纪律，看起来毫不费力。设计师最重要的人物参照是 Tonya Harding，看中的不是她故事的猎奇面，而是他说的那种「决心与原始感」。整场系列沿着滑冰选手的衣橱推进：从热身层到冰上亮相，标志性的利落剪裁和羽毛细节都在。色盘是墨黑与乳白打底，穿插缎面的糖果色——薄荷蓝飞行员夹克配技术感领口、流苏或抽褶如发圈般收起的裙摆、棉花糖粉的短裤、金属感柱形长裙，还有把运动轮廓压缩到极致的骨撑连体衣。另一个灵感来自花滑的「规定图形」：选手在冰上刻出的同心圆与 8 字是要被打分的。Koma 把它做成一条黑色迷你裙上的手工钉珠水晶同心纹、中心嵌珍珠母；几何形还出现在髋骨处开洞缀流苏、以及用内置金属结构在身体周围提拉收拢面料的设计里，长裙与半裙靠内部骨撑向外延展，托起闪烁的真丝流苏与羽毛。他说自己想「让身体动起来、造出有机的动态」，是在把滑冰的离心力翻译成衣服。秀评同时指出这一季更宽的变化：Koma 想让这个品牌走出红毯——华丽的招牌元素被放进更多成衣单品、针织与叠穿里，让穿着者在不同品类和场合都能进入他的世界；他的收尾说法是，华丽即力量，而「David Koma 的女性正变得越来越难定义」。
David Koma started this season thinking about cool summers. The contradiction led him to the ice rink: specifically, the fiercely competitive world of 1990s figure skating, where rhinestones and theatrical femininity drape their discipline to make everything seem effortless. Tonya Harding was the most potent character reference: not because of the spectacle of her story, but for what Koma described as her “determination and rawness.” The spring 2027 collection moved fluidly through a skater’s wardrobe, from warm-up layers to the rink reveal, sticking the landing with Koma’s key signatures like sharp-edged tailoring and feather details.
The color palette told a lot of that story: inky black and milky ivory punctuated by satiny, sugary shades, all cutting across each other to stop things from veering too saccharine. There was a minty blue bomber jacket with a technical neckline and skirts fringed or gathered like a scrunchie, candyfloss pink knickers, metallic column gowns, and sculpted, boned bodysuits that abbreviated the sport’s silhouettes.
Koma also became fascinated by compulsory figures—the painstaking circles and figure-eights skaters trace onto the ice and are judged upon. One black minidress featured the concentric forms rendered in hand-beaded crystals with mother-of-pearl centers inserted into the garment like jewelry. Geometric shapes appeared elsewhere as hipbone cutouts blooming with fringe or as internal metal constructions that pulled and gathered fabric around the body to bolster some of that showtime dynamism. Other pieces, even at rest, seemed to vibrate. A succession of gowns and skirts with internal boning extended away from the body and supported shimmering layers of silk fringe and feathers plumes. “I like to animate the body and create this organic movement,” Koma said, finding an elegant way to translate skating’s centrifugal force.
After scores had been served and the rink closed, the broader shift here was toward giving the David Koma woman more life beyond the red carpet. There were still high-glamour hallmarks, but they were increasingly embedded into ready-to-wear separates, knitwear, and layering pieces. Koma spoke of wanting the wearer to experience his world across different categories and occasions. The core proposition remained glamour as a form of strength. Said the designer: “It’s becoming harder to define the David Koma woman and I think that’s important, to see how characters across the world translate my vision.”
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com