Ao Yes上海2027春夏：镜面、水波与宋锦，新中式不端着、要轻要好玩
Ao Yes Shanghai Spring 2027
这是Vogue对中国设计师双人组Austin Wang与Yansong Liu的品牌Ao Yes在上海2027春夏季的一篇秀评。这一季的出发点是「倒影」：镜面、阳光、阴影与水面的波纹，被转译成一组偏柔美、偏女性化的单品。波点、锯齿纹样，以及卡通化的中国山水图样给衣服添了活气，秀评认为其魅力在于不费力、不端着。轮廓从简洁的连衣裙到更贴身的形制都有，还有流动的分层斗篷，以及对旗袍的轻巧改写。传统元素确实在场——灵感来自宋代宫廷织物的锦缎、以及照例出现的红色（在原文语境里关联喜庆与好运）——但处理得很轻，没有沉重的文化宣示感。两位设计师自述，自创牌以来一直在探索「新中式」可以是什么样子，尤其面向一代对继承下来的着装规矩兴趣不大、更想按自己方式穿的年轻人；这一季的答案不是宏大宣言，而是一个邀请式的提议：传统可以是乐趣的来源，而不是必须扛起的义务。秀场更国际化的选角也被秀评读作品牌想走出本土市场、但不丢根的信号。需要说明：本文是单篇秀评，属记者的现场观察与设计师自述，没有销售数据或第三方评价可核验，读者把它当作认识一个中国设计师品牌当季思路的窗口即可，不要把秀评的解读当作品牌经营结论。
For a generation of young Chinese designers, tradition seems to have become a more important part of their creative language, even as they work with a lighter hand and a sense of play. Designer duo Austin Wang and Yansong Liu built their spring collection around the idea of reflection, playing with mirrors, sunlight, shadows, and the rippling surfaces of water, which they translated into pretty, feminine pieces. Polka dots, jagged patterns, and cartoon-like drawings of Chinese mountains and seas lent a lively energy to clothes whose charm lay in their unforced appeal.
The silhouettes had a lighthearted ease, ranging from uncomplicated dresses to more body-conscious shapes, flowing tiered capes, and delicate reinterpretations of the qipao. Trad references emerged in brocades inspired by Song-dynasty court textiles, while red made its customary appearance, with its associations of happiness and good fortune. Yet nothing felt burdened by solemn cultural significance. Ao Yes treated heritage with a sensibility both cheerful and delicate, giving familiar items a youthful, contemporary inflection.
Since launching the brand, the designers said, they’ve been exploring what a new Chinese style might look like, particularly for a generation less interested in inherited dress codes than in making them their own. Here, their ambition took shape not as a grand statement but as an inviting proposition: heritage can be a source of pleasure rather than an obligation. Even the more international casting hinted at a brand looking beyond its home market without losing sight of its roots. Ao Yes made cultural memory feel less like an inheritance to uphold than a set of possibilities to play with.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com