Xu Zhi上海2027春夏：把少女感穿成一种气质，不分性别
Xu Zhi Shanghai Spring 2027
上海时装周上，设计师陈序之（Xuzhi Chen）的品牌 Xu Zhi 把秀办在上海花园饭店——前身是 1926 年的法国总会舞厅。这一季名为《The Girls》，但设计师强调：少女感是一种气质，而不是性别。维多利亚式睡裙、睡衣与埋在层层流苏之下的铁丝裙撑，与做旧牛仔、机车夹克、军装外套同场出现；提花丝绸、蕾丝镶嵌、低调的花卉钉珠与复古印花，营造出「从卧室借来的衣服」般的私密感。男装部分同样延续这种暧昧：缩水 T 恤、水洗牛仔、飘逸长大衣，蕾丝衬衫与露出裤腰的平角短裤把内衣带到日常，绑带芭蕾鞋给偏硬朗的造型添了柔软的对照。Vogue 秀评人 Tiziana Cardini 认为，中国元素在这里不在装饰纹样，而在一种分寸感——脆弱与力量、柔软与决断之间的平衡；东西方、卧室与街头相遇得并不刻意。说明：本文为秀场评论，设计阐释来自设计师自述与评论者观察，属审美解读而非可核实的行业数据，读者当作了解本季设计语言的样本即可。
At the Okura Garden Hotel Shanghai, a former French Club whose 1926 ballroom once hosted the revels of the Jazz Age, designer Xuzhi Chen of Xu Zhi staged a rather lovely fashion séance. Beneath an oval stained-glass dome, its Art Deco colors washing over the carpeted ballroom floor, models circled live musicians. A classical harp solo gradually gave way to drums and keyboards, and the music shifted from lyricism to a grungier pulse. The atmosphere was romantic, but with an undertow.
Xuzhi Chen called the collection The Girls, insisting that girlness was a quality rather than a gender. Victorian nightgowns, pajamas, and wired crinolines concealed beneath cascading fringes were teamed with distressed denim, biker jackets, and military outerwear. Jacquard silk, lace inserts, discreet floral beadwork, and vintage-inspired prints lent the clothes the intimacy of garments borrowed from a bedroom.
The boys, pale and androgynous, wore shrunken T-shirts, washed denim, long swaying coats, and military jackets. Lace shirts and boxer shorts peeking above trouser waistbands brought underwear into daylight; lace-up ballet shoes lent even the more muscular looks a delicate counterpoint.
Chinese references were less a matter of decorative motifs than of sensibility: Chen sees the balance between fragility and strength, softness and resolve, as central to the Chinese spirit. East and West, the Victorian bedroom and the grunge-era street, met without much fuss. In the end, this show was less about dressing like a girl than allowing a little vulnerability to show.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com