奢侈品三季度料更冷:平均增速或从7%放缓到2.7%,珠宝仍是亮点
Luxury’s Third-Quarter Earnings Cheat Sheet
奢侈品三季度财报季还没正式开场,分析师的预期已经先冷了下来。Vogue Business 这篇前瞻汇总了汇丰、高盛、Morningstar 等机构的判断:年初至今,LVMH、爱马仕、开云的股价已分别跌了约40%、39%和30%,历峰大致持平;汇丰按八家主要奢侈品公司估算,三季度平均增速预计放缓到2.7%,明显低于二季度的7%——若把表现突出的历峰剔除、只看其余公司,增速更只有1.1%,二季度是5.1%。作为行业风向标的 LVMH 预计三季度增长1%,但最核心的时装与皮具部门预计跌2%;这个部门二季度刚以+1%结束连续七个季度的下滑、被看作拐点,三季度若再转负,Ortelli & Co. 的 Marion Ortelli 提醒,部分投资者可能会把这轮放缓从周期性看成结构性,进一步压低估值。中国是放缓的主因之一:汇丰的 Anne-Laure Bismuth 说,中国市场出现环比减速,部分与针对境外资产的新税有关,期间还有不少门店关闭,消费者情绪也不支持奢侈消费;高盛的 Erwan Rambourg 预计,财报电话会上最会被追问的就是中国何时企稳、以及三季度是否就是低点。路易威登与本土茶饮品牌茉莉奶白的商标诉讼也被分析师点名——后者因四瓣花标识侵权被判赔约150万美元,在中国社交媒体上引发不少反弹,分析师认为这可能影响该品牌在当地的销售,Bismuth 判断影响会有、但应是暂时的;LVMH 首席财务官 Cécile Cabanis 在二季度电话会上曾回应,知识产权是核心资产、集团在各国都会常态维权。其他市场也不轻松:韩国二季度靠科技与人工智能带来的财富效应一度火热,三季度预计因同比基数变高而降温;欧洲的游客客流仍弱,亚洲游客尚未回来、美国游客是唯一有分量的需求来源,中东游客也未完全恢复;美国三季度预计偏软,原因同样有基数变高,也有消费者观望和股市波动,Rambourg 按渠道摸排判断假期季应该还行。相对抗跌的是珠宝:历峰珠宝部门(卡地亚、梵克雅宝等)上季度增24%,三季度预计仍增17%;LVMH 的腕表与珠宝(含蒂芙尼、宝格丽)预计增11%,开云珠宝(含宝诗龙、宝曼兰朵)预计增14%。Morningstar 的 Jelena Sokolova 的解释是,珠宝客群更富裕、更抗波动,品牌涨价也相对克制,消费者更容易把它当投资;她唯一的担忧是珠宝品牌可能因过度曝光成为自身成功的受害者。创意换帅一周年后的三家大牌也被逐一估算:香奈儿每年5月才报业绩、短期难跟踪,但据彭博8月报道,其上半年可比收入增16%、时装部门增幅相近,2026秋冬系列已于9月22日到店、在比亚里茨发布的度假系列11月到店;迪奥汇丰预计有机增长1%、跑赢集团时装皮具部门,高盛更乐观、预计增6%;古驰汇丰预计有机销售跌5%、市场共识为跌2.8%,在时代广场发布的 GucciCore 系列将于10—11月到店,被寄望帮古驰四季度回到正增长。Rambourg 的总结是三季度会偏软,但对四季度和明年再加速仍有信心,理由是更好的价格架构、产品提案和换帅品牌的新品逐步到位。需要提醒:以上全是财报发布前的分析师预测,不是已公布的实际业绩,不同机构对同一品牌(如迪奥+1%对+6%)分歧不小,实际数字要等各集团正式财报;文中关于中国、韩国与游客客流的判断也属受访分析师观点,读者按前瞻预期看待、不要当已发生的事实。
Since the beginning of the year, share prices of LVMH, Hermès and Kering have fallen 40%, 39% and 30%, respectively, while Richemont remains roughly flat. And luxury’s performance in Q3 is unlikely to offer much reassurance to investors.
On average, based on eight key luxury companies, growth is expected to slow to 2.7%, compared with 7% in the second quarter of 2026, according to HSBC estimates. “We had turned more cautious on the sector in early September, because of all the news about the situation in China deteriorating and the tough comparison basis in the US,” says Anne-Laure Bismuth, HSBC’s head of luxury and sporting goods. “During our pre-close discussions with the companies, we realized that conditions were worse than we had initially anticipated, prompting us to lower our estimates across the board, with Richemont being the sole exception.”

Given Richemont’s significant outperformance — the group was up 20% in its fiscal Q1, versus an industry average of 7% — HSBC provides a more representative picture that excludes the group: anticipated luxury sector growth of 1.1% in Q3, down from 5.1% in Q2.
LVMH, the sector’s bellwether, is forecast to grow 1% in Q3, with its key fashion and leather goods division expected to fall 2%, per HSBC. This follows a return to positive growth for the all-important division in Q2 (+1%), which was seen as an inflection point after seven consecutive quarters of negative growth.
“In the event of a weak Q3, some investors may be more inclined to view the slowdown in the luxury market as structural rather than cyclical, putting further pressure on valuations,” says Marion Ortelli, managing director at Ortelli & Co.
Here are the key analyst predictions for luxury’s Q3.
The question mark on China
“There has been a sequential deceleration in China that’s partly linked to the introduction of a new tax on foreign assets,” Goldman Sachs luxury analyst Erwan Rambourg says. “There have been quite a few [Chinese] store closures, and I think the mood music is unsupportive of luxury.”
As for the questions likely to come up during earnings calls, Rambourg predicts: “What will it take for China to stabilize? How confident are you that Q3 will prove to be a low point and that we’ll see some improvement from here?”
Analysts think that the litigation between Louis Vuitton and local tea brand Molly Tea — whereby the latter was ordered to pay approximately $1.5 million to LV for the trademark infringement of its four-petal emblem, amid much pushback on Chinese social media — is having an impact on the house’s sales in the region. Asked about it during the LVMH Q2 earnings call, CFO Cécile Cabanis replied: “ I’m sure that you agree that IP is an absolute key asset for us, and we diligently protect our brands. Our maisons handle trademark infringement in many countries very regularly, including China. This case just received media attention.”
“I think it will have an impact, but I still think it will be temporary,” says Bismuth.
Growth slows across regions
But it’s not just China. South Korea’s luxury boom in the second quarter, fueled by wealth generated in the tech sector, particularly AI, is expected to moderate in Q3. “It’s easing off,” says Bismuth, citing a tougher year-on-year comparison basis.
Rambourg also highlights the weakness of tourist flows across Europe, noting that Asian visitors have yet to return and American ones remain the only meaningful source of demand. Middle Eastern tourism in Europe had also not fully recovered. “That could be a bit of a drag on Q3 performance,” says Jelena Sokolova, senior equity analyst at Morningstar.
In the US, meanwhile, Q3 is expected to be somewhat weaker, partly due to a tougher year-on-year comparison basis, but also a potential reflection of consumers’ wait-and-see attitudes and volatility in equity markets, according to Rambourg. “I think the idea from channel checks is that Q3 might be a bit soft, but the holiday season will be OK,” he says.
Jewelry continues as a luxury safe haven
After spectacular 24% growth last quarter across its jewelry maisons, Richemont is expected to continue to shine. According to HSBC estimates, the jewelry division — including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels — is expected to be up 17% in Q3. “There is a slowdown, but it’s probably a healthy development,” says Bismuth. LVMH’s watches and jewelry maisons, which include Tiffany & Co. and Bvlgari, are expected to grow 11%, while Kering’s jewelry division, home to Boucheron and Pomellato, is forecast to increase 14%.

Cartier’s Into the Wild campaign with Tilda Swinton.
Photo: Courtesy of Cartier“ There is no indication of jewelry slowing down,” says Sokolova. “Jewelry has been outperforming. There are a few factors behind that. It targets more affluent consumers, so they are more resilient. Jewelry brands have been less aggressive in terms of price increase also so people see it as an investment.”
Her only concern is about overexposure looking ahead. “Jewelry brands could become victims of their own success,” she adds.
A creative reset check-in
One year after a major creative reset, where do things stand? The three mega-brands that underwent creative change are Chanel under Matthieu Blazy, Dior under Jonathan Anderson, and Gucci under Demna.
Chanel reports its earnings each May, making it difficult to track its performance in the short term. However, Blazy’s collections are understood to have boosted sales. Estimates for Q3 aren’t available, but according to a Bloomberg report published in August, comparable revenue rose 16% in the first half, with the fashion division posting similar growth. The Fall/Winter 2026 collection arrived in stores on September 22, while the cruise collection, presented in Biarritz, will hit stores in November.

Behind the scenes at Dior’s SS27 show.
Photo: Acielle/ Style Du MondeHSBC expects Dior to deliver 1% organic growth in Q3, outperforming the LVMH fashion and leather goods division’s expected 2% decline, although representing a slight deceleration from Q2. (In Q2, Dior’s sales growth was “a bit above the division average” of 2%, according to Cabanis.) Goldman Sachs is more optimistic, forecasting 6% growth for Dior in the third quarter.
HSBC forecasts Gucci’s organic sales to decline 5%, while consensus expectations point to a 2.8% decline. Analysts expect GucciCore, the collection presented in Times Square and set to arrive in stores from October/November, to support a return to positive organic sales growth in Q4.
“Q3 will be quite soft,” Rambourg concludes. “We are, however, confident that things can re-accelerate into Q4 and into next year, linked to better pricing architecture, better product propositions. Some of the brands that have gone through big changes, are creeping up in terms of newness.”
来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com